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Polishing produces varying degrees of gloss, according to the type of polish employed and the method used. All methods rely to some extent upon friction for the final levelling and smoothing of the surface treated, but perfect uniformity of gloss also depends upon checking excessive absorption by the surface. Polishing methodsThe three methods of polishing in general use are wax polishing, French polishing, and oil polishing, the last being capable of withstanding long exposure to weather. All can be applied to new wood, or over a stain. If required, they can also be coloured and made to combine the duties of stain and polish. Wax gives a rather dull gloss, French polish is a high gloss, and linseed oil produces a semi-gloss finish. Wax polishThis term originally referred to the application of a simple mixture of beeswax and turpentine, but is now applied to different brands of wax-base polishes which include varying quantities of other waxes, gums, and resinous substances. These additions undoubtedly help to produce a fine polished surface, but the simple beeswax base possesses a characteristic handsome gloss. Although it is often more convenient to purchase a readymade compound, the preparation of wax polish is simple. Take precautions to prevent the ingredients from catching fire, however. A good method is to shred the beeswax into an earthenware jar, using just enough to fill the jar halfway. Place the jar in a pan of water and heat over a low flame until the wax melts. Any tendency to boil over can be controlled by removing the pan from the fire. Take the jar of melted wax out of doors, or at least well away from any open flame, before adding the turpentine. This should be added in the proportion of one part of turpentine to two of wax. Stir the mixture and cover the jar to prevent loss by evaporation. Wax polish imparts a smooth, hard-wearing finish to new hardwood floors or furniture, but several coats, rubbed well into the woodwork at daily intervals, are required before the best results are obtained. When the more porous softwoods are treated, it is advisable to apply a preliminary coat of raw linseed oil (mixed with driers), or a coat of oil stain, in order to reduce the excessive porosity of the wood. Remember that surfaces finished with wax polish cannot be varnished or French polished unless every trace of the wax is completely removed.
Oil polishAlthough the process is not widely known and has the disadvantage of being rather tedious and slow, oil polishing produces an extremely tough and durable finish, particularly suitable for new hardwoods. Preparation consists of filling holes with plastic wood, sandpapering the entire surface, and removing all dust. The oil is prepared by mixing half a pint of refined linseed oil with one tablespoonful of liquid drier. Apply this mixture sparingly with a piece of clean rag, making about four applications at weekly intervals. Rubbing the final coat briskly produces a gloss which, when hard, is capable of withstanding hot dinner plates. French polishWhile absolute perfection in this skill demands considerable experience, there are many amateurs quite capable of producing a good finish. Given the right working conditions and materials, any beginner should make good progress in a few hours. Conditions of dryness and warmth are of great importance. A cold draft or damp atmosphere is almost sure to cause French polish to dry with a permanent, whitish bloom, or with considerable loss of brilliance. Brown French polish should be prepared from the very best quality orange shellac. White French polish should be made from the best white shellac. Both can be bought prepared. A stock mixture for brown French polish contains 4 to 5 oz. of shellac dissolved in one pint of denatured alcohol. The standard mixture for white French polish contains approximately 6 oz. of shellac dissolved in one pint of denatured alcohol.
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