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There are many kinds of enamel available, and their composition varies greatly according to the brand. Although the formula may vary, enamel can be described roughly as a varnish with pigment added. Enamel can be used for floors, toys, exterior and interior trim, and has many other uses. When you buy enamel, buy the right type for the job to be done, for there is just as much difference between certain kinds of enamel as between paints and varnishes. You can obtain enamels that dry with either a dull finish or a high gloss, and, in general, they will produce a surface smoother and harder than that produced by oil paints. Most enamels will hide a surface almost as well as oil paints, and enamel flows so freely as to leave no brush marks on the finished surface. ApplicationDo not apply enamel with an ordinary paint brush. For best results in your work, use a brush made for enamelling purposes. This brush has softer bristles than an ordinary brush, and the bristles are bevelled on each side to flow on the enamel more smoothly and to help eliminate brush marks. A good enamel brush should be used only with enamel, never for oil paints. Test the enamel on a small area in order to find the brushing technique required. Apply a brushful to about a square foot and completely finish the area before dipping the brush again and proceeding. In this way, the brush marks will flow out. Join the adjacent section to the first and continue in this manner. Do not attempt to go back over the work, as later brush marks are not likely to flow out and will spoil the finished appearance of the work. Under coaterIn order to fill minute indentations, level off, and hide surfaces upon which enamel is to be applied, use enamel under coaters. These dry to a dull finish and, with a little sanding, form an excellent surface for the enamel. They should be brushed on in the manner previously described, since brush marks made in the undercoated will show through the enamel unless they are completely sanded out. Under coaters are usually white, but, if desired, they may be coloured by adding a small amount of enamel. Although under coaters are not required when enamelling new wood or unfinished old wood, the finish will last longer and look better if an undercoat is applied. Make sure that the wood is clean and dry, as it should be for any finish. Apply two coats of enamel, but allow the first to dry and sand it down with No. 0 sandpaper before you put on the second coat.
Enamelling old woodTo enamel old, finished wood, the procedure is a little different. If the old finish is in good condition, remove any wax or polish with petrol, or sand it down with No. 1/2 sandpaper until the surface is smooth to the touch. Apply the under coater, sand it down, and brush on the enamel. If the old finish is in bad condition, it should be removed either by scraping or with a liquid remover. Sand the surface and finish with under coater and enamel. Always remember to sand with the grain and never against it. Stained surfaceIf you wish to enamel a piece of woodwork that has previously been finished with a stain, you will be faced with a problem of preventing the stain from bleeding through the enamel and discolouring it. Several coats of enamel will not prevent this action from taking place. The remedy is to remove the old finish down to the bare wood with a varnish or paint remover, sand the surface, and give it a coat of aluminium paint. This will seal off the stain from the wood. After the aluminium paint is dry the under coater can be applied, followed by the enamel. As with any other finish, poor quality enamel or improper application will cause the finish to crack and scale. If the cracks run down to the bare wood, the entire finish should be removed. If the cracks run only as deep as the top coating, the surface should be sanded, washed, and a new enamel coat applied after the surface has dried. MetalWhen painting metal with enamel, apply a priming coat to the metal, as is done when using an oil paint on metal.
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