Tools for the handyman : Handsaws

 

There are two kinds of handsaws: the crosscut, used for cutting across the grain of the wood, and the ripsaw for cutting with the grain. The teeth of a crosscut saw are triangular, the front of each tooth being filed to a 15-degree angle and the back to a 45-degree angle. The teeth are "set," i.e. bent alternately to one side or to the other.

The teeth of a ripsaw are chisel shaped, the front of each tooth filed to an 8-degree angle, and the rear to a 52-degree angle. The teeth of a ripsaw are "set"" in the same fashion as those in a crosscut saw. The size of a saw is measured by the number of points to the inch. The number of teeth to an inch is always one less than the number of points to the inch. A crosscut saw of average size is 8 points, while a ripsaw should be about 7 points.
Saws should be kept free of rust by wiping them with light oil after they have been used. Be very careful in sawing used lumber not to strike a nail or some metal object in the wood. This will dull the teeth to such a degree that the saw -will be of little use until it has been sharpened. Do not try to work with a dull saw. This is too much of a handicap for even a skilled workman. Sharpening a saw properly requires skill and experience, and -unless you are willing to devote considerable time to this job, it is advisable to have your saws sharpened by a professional.

Sawing a straight line can be accomplished by observing a few simple rules. First, the line to be cut should be marked, using a square or rule, so that the line will be straight. Do not trust your eye alone as a guide when sawing. By marking two or more sides of the wood before starting, you provide additional assurance that the cut will be right.

Hold the saw at a 45-degree angle to the wood for cross cutting and at a 60-degree angle when ripping. Use the knuckle of the thumb as a guide.

A piece of wood can be used instead of the thumb, and this will prevent injury in case the saw jumps. The first few strokes of the saw will indicate whether you are going to get a square cut or not. Saw with slow, deliberate strokes and do not hurry.

A small nail driven in the opening of the cut will prevent the wood from closing in on the saw and causing it to bind. Do not force down on the saw in an effort to make it cut.

Sawing with the grain. Allow the saw to cut without applying any downward pressure on the blade. The weight of the saw is sufficient, provided that the saw is sharp.

Tenon Saw. This saw is also called a backsaw or a miter saw. It is a crosscut saw with 12 to 16 points to the inch, a thin blade, and a reinforced back. This saw is used to make the very fine cuts required in cabinetwork and other fine woodwork. To make the cuts accurate, the tenon saw should be used in conjunction with a miter box. To build a miter box (or block) yourself.

Coping Saw. The coping saw used for fine work and for cutting curves in wood. The blade is held the frame under tension and can be turned in the frame so that cuts may be made at different angles. The blades can be removed when they become dull or broken. Keep a supply of extra blades in the tool kit because thin blades are easily broken.

Compass Saw. The blade of this saw is pointed, and is used primarily for cutting curves where it would be impossible to use a coping saw because of the frame. The general practice in working with the compass saw is to drill a hole with a brace and bit large enough for the blade of the saw. After this has been done, the saw is inserted in the hole and the remainder of the wood is cut out with the saw. A keyhole saw is similar to the compass saw; the handle is shaped differently and it is smaller.

Coping Saw
Compass Saw
Tenon Saw in Miter Box

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